What Is Lanolin and Why It Must Be Removed
Lanolin is a waxy substance secreted by the sebaceous glands of sheep to protect their wool from rain and UV exposure. In raw (greasy) fleece, it coats individual fibres and makes them sticky and matted. While lanolin has some beneficial properties for finished handspun yarn, its presence in excess quantities during carding and spinning causes fibres to clump, resist drafting, and accumulate grime on hand tools.
In Poland, sheep breeds such as Merino crossbreeds, Corriedale, and the native Polska Owca Nizinna produce fleece with varying lanolin content. Fine-wool breeds generally carry more grease than coarser breeds. The amount of lanolin in a fleece affects how much detergent and how many rinse cycles are needed to clean it thoroughly.
Sorting the Fleece Before Washing
Before water is introduced, the fleece should be sorted. Spread it on a clean surface and remove the following by hand:
- Heavily soiled skirting — the outer edges of the fleece, which carry the most dung and staining
- Second cuts — short fragments left by the shearer, which card into neps
- Vegetable matter — seeds, burrs, and grass fragments, which can be removed individually from the lock tips
- Heavily felted sections — areas where fibres have already matted and cannot be separated without damage
Sorting is easier when the fleece is still slightly warm from the animal or from mild sun exposure. Cold lanolin becomes rigid and difficult to work with.
Water Temperature: The Critical Variable
Felting occurs when wool fibres are subjected to sudden temperature change combined with agitation. Each fibre has a scale-like outer layer (the cuticle). When fibres are hot and the scales open, rapid cooling or vigorous movement causes the scales to interlock permanently — a process that cannot be reversed.
To avoid felting during scouring, all water used in both washing and rinsing stages should be held at roughly the same temperature: between 60°C and 70°C for the initial wash (to dissolve lanolin effectively) and between 50°C and 60°C for rinse water. The key rule is consistency: do not move cold water directly onto hot fleece, and do not plunge hot fleece into cool water.
A thermometer is helpful. In a domestic setting, the hot tap in Poland typically delivers water at 45–55°C, which is insufficient to dissolve lanolin efficiently. Heating water on a stove and mixing it with tap water to reach target temperature is the standard approach for small batches.
Detergent Selection
Lanolin dissolves in hot water with a surfactant. The detergent should be:
- pH-neutral or slightly alkaline (pH 7–8)
- Free of optical brighteners (these can cause colour damage in dyed fleece)
- Free of enzymes (enzyme-based detergents break down protein fibres, of which wool is composed)
Standard household dishwashing liquids are widely used for hand-scouring because they are designed to cut grease at lower temperatures and rinse clean. Products containing bleach or strong alkalis (such as some laundry powders) should be avoided.
The quantity needed depends on the grease load. A moderately greasy fleece (approximately 300g) may require one tablespoon of dishwashing liquid per 5 litres of water for the first wash, and a smaller amount for the second wash if a two-stage approach is used.
Step-by-Step Scouring Process
- Fill a large basin or sink with water at 65°C. Add detergent and mix briefly.
- Lower the sorted fleece gently into the water. Do not agitate; the weight of the water and the heat should work through the locks.
- Leave undisturbed for 20–30 minutes. Pushing or stirring the fleece at this stage introduces felting risk.
- Lift the fleece with both hands, supporting its full weight. Squeezing is acceptable; wringing is not.
- Drain the wash water, which will appear dark and oily. If the fleece is still heavily greasy, prepare a second wash bath and repeat.
- Prepare the first rinse: water at 60°C, no detergent. Submerge the fleece and leave for 10–15 minutes.
- Repeat with a second clean rinse at 55°C.
- Lift, press gently, and transfer to a mesh rack or clean dry towel to drain.
Drying
Drying can be done outdoors in warm weather on a flat mesh surface, which allows air circulation on all sides. Direct sunlight speeds drying but can bleach white wool and fade natural pigments in coloured fleece.
Indoors, a heated room or airing cupboard is suitable. The fleece should be spread loosely, not compressed. At ambient temperatures common in Polish spring and early summer (15–22°C), a 200g batch of medium-staple fleece dries completely within 24 hours when spread on a rack.
Before carding, the fleece should be fully dry. Residual moisture inside locks causes fibres to clump on hand cards and creates an environment where mould can develop in storage.
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Once the fleece is clean and dry, the next step is aligning the fibres before spinning. See Hand Carding Wool: Aligning Fibres with Paddles for the continuation of the preparation process.